We interrupt my sporadic rambling with an idea suggested by a friend dustandfox, who after noting my propensity for hunting down cheap and interesting restaurants said that I should write about them.

So without further ado...

MENYA!

Ramen. A dish hailing from Japan comprised of soup with noodles and chunks of biological material floating in it. Hardly a flattering description, but the most informative. Ramen is the raison d'etre for the staff of Menya, a Japanese restaurant in Chinatown that has mastered the art of making the best noodles with the tastiest biological matter to accompany them.

Menya is found much like an oasis to a lost desert traveller - the desert in this case is the vast expanse of Chinese fare that surrounds it in its Thomas Street location - by complete surprise and a degree of relief. Upon walking in the traditional Japanese call of 'irrashaimase!' issues from the staff, a good sign of the venue's cultural authenticity, and in true ramen vendor fashion orders and payment are made in advance at the front counter. Staff are pleasant and capable enough with English to mean anyone who can't wrap their tongue around Japanese won't feel alienated, so even complicated orders are relatively painless.

At this point, a distinctive point about Menya must be mentioned, specifically its communal seating arrangement. With two long central tables and benches running alongside, it is the not place for a quite canoodle in the corner. Even if you manage to sneak in on a quieter night, the slightly cramped quarters, open kitchen and rather post-modern wire-surfaced wall don't make for the most romantic of spaces.

Once you've squeezed in though, you'll find that almost any dish you can order will be in front of you before ten minutes have passed, and while you may have to leave your seat to fetch water (getting your meal is the extent of the table service), Menya comes off as casual, quick and friendly. Oh yes... and CHEAP! A point that must be noted is that despite the generally high level of quality and service available, there are no dishes that cost more then $20 there, with the majority being less then $15.

As for the fare available, I've already stated that the staple of Menya is their ramen. They have 16 basic varieties on offer, ranging from the non-threatening (Teriyaki Chicken Ramen) to the daring (Hot and Spicy Kimchee Ramen), all of which feature delicious noodles made on-site and some rather interesting soup stocks (the best of which is their standard tonkotsu stock). The appeal of ramen, especially Menya's, is that its a mix of quality ingredients in all the food groups (pickled bamboo and various leafy vegetables make appearances in most dishes) with the noodles serving as the filler, so one can finish the meal without feeling like they need more, but also not feeling like they need a jog to burn it off afterwards. My recommendation in this field is the Karaage Ramen, which uses slightly spiced deep fried chicken to great effect.

Dishes that use soba (buckwheat) and udon (fat and chewy) noodles, such as Tempura Soba with deep fried prawns and vegetables, are also available though in less abudance then their egg-noodle cousins. For those trying to keep the carbs out of their diet, there are some curry and teriyaki dishes, as well as some simple entrees (try the takoyaki, hot and creamy octopus, served in fried balls with a tasty cream sauce). Vegans and vegetarians will find that there is little on offer, though there is the corn and butter ramen and various salads to tide them over if they dig their heels in.

As for drinks the debauchery will have to wait as Menya has no on-site alcohol or BYO, so its all the usual soft drinks and juices as well as some Asian import juices and mineral waters. All dishes except for ramen and box set meals are available in take-away form.

SUMMARY - Menya is a cheap and easy ramen-focused restaurant, better for quick meals with friends then prolonged fine dining. If such a tacky thing as a score must be given then I'd give them a 7, with points lost for cramped space, lack of variety and poor alternative dining options.

RECOMMENDED DISHES - Karaage Ramen ($8.90) or the Eel Lovers' Set (a whole eel with salad rice and ramen for $18.50).

Menya is located at Shop TG8 - 8 Quay St in Haymarket, with its entrance lying on Thomas Street just around the corner. Give them a call on 9212 1020 or visit http://www.yakiniku.com.au/menya.html for their menu. They're open everyday for lunch and dinner except for Tuesday.